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Chinatown Edit page

From Singapore Hotels & Singapore Lifestyle

Chinatown is known as Niu che shui (牛车水; pinyin: Niúchēshuǐ) in Chinese, literally, "ox-cart water," as a result of the fact that, because of its location, Chinatown's water supply was principally transported by animal-driven carts in the 19th century. The name Chinatown is also echoed in the Malay name, Kreta Ayer, with the same meaning.

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History

Strange as it might seem to have a Chinatown in a city that's over 75 per cent dominated by Chinese, this colourful district provides a glimpse into the ways of the Chinese immigrants that shaped and built modern Singapore. The oddity can be traced back to Stamford Raffles who subdivided his new town into various districts and according to racial lines in the early 1820s. He used two rivers as dividing lines. The marshy area at teh mouth of the Singapore River was designated a commercial area, while the area directly west was given to Chinese immigrants who did much of the manual labour. Kampong Glam between Rochor River and the sea was zoned off for Arab traders and Malay merchants.

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Modern Day

Chinatown - that glimpse is not nearly as clear as it used to be, thanks largely to a concerted gentrification effort that has seen a lot of Chinatown's distinctive seediness make way for more Tourist-friendly businesses. The area has changed incredibly since the early 1990s. Many old shopfronts have been restored, or rather ripped down and rebuilt in the same style, under the direction of the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA). While the redevelopments are faithful to the originals, these now desirable properties command high rents, which means some of the traditional Businesses have had to move out and, in a few streets at least, make way for the New Chinatown of boutique Hotels, antique shops, fashionable Restaurants, expensive retailers and Tourist markets.

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Past and Present

Despite the growing urbanisation, Chinatown still has pockets of narrow streets and shophouses. It is divided into different dialect-speaking quarters as the early immigrants tended to congregate in certain neighbourhoods according to the dialect they spoke and their village origins.

The entire quarter is hemmed in by high-rises now but Chinatown is still dominated by exotic sights and smells, albeit amid mountains of gaudy tourist tat. Frogs await skinning in the local wet markets, while waxed meats and birds' nests are spread along the pavement. In the medical halls, there are pearls to be ground and ginseng roots to rejuvenate the aged. And at certain times of the year, the pungent aroma of Durians permeate everything, as people flock to buy the spiky green fruit.

A stroll in Chinatown reveals contrasting vignettes that make the district a fascinating blend of the past and the present. It is not uncommon to see executives toting briefcase in one hand and mobile phone on the other pass temples where elderly women in Samfoos (Chinese blouse and trousers) toss wooden sticks from a tin can as they pray for "lucky numbers" in the lottery.

Beautifully refurbished shophouses that are now home to trendy advertising agencies and funky bars stand shoulder to shoulder with decaying shophouses selling antiques and bric-a-brac. And in the shopping centres and on the streets that thread through Chinatown, handmade puppets, opera masks, kites, silk items, herbs and traditional Chinese furniture sell alongside computers and other electronic goods.

Tourist strips like Pagoda Street can be a little much, packed with cheap Cheongsam (Chinese dresses), calligraphers, henna tatooists and overpriced antique shops. Having said that, Chinatown is still an excellent area to stay, and to wander around. It contains some of Singapore's most notable temples and, once you negotiate the tacky tourist market stalls, there are plenty of bargains to be found, plus excellent food and some of the best Nightlife in Singapore.

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Orientation

Chinatown is roughly bounded by the Singapore River to the north, New Bridge Road to the west, Maxwell Road and Kreta Ayer Road to the south and Cecil Street to the east. The main centres of visitor attention are clustered between New Bridge Road and South Bridge Road, where you'll find the Chinatown Complex, the Pagoda Street and Trengganu Street pedestrian strips (or tourist traps) and the temples, while the Club Street bar area lies just to the east of South Bridge Road.

The heart of Chinatown is an area off South Bridge Road that embraces Pagoda Street, Temple Street and Trengganu Street. In 1972, Pagoda Street had an illustrious visitor: Queen Elizabeth II did a walkabout here during her state visit to view the classical facades that characterise the Shophouses, a tour repeated countless times a day by visitors equally drawn by the fascinating architecture.

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